Camino Portugues

Porto to Finisterre, November 2017

Jan 04, 2018

After walking the Camino Frances in the spring of 2017, I was certain I would return for another Camino in a year or two. Alas, less than 7 months later in November, the Camino was calling me once again. I felt the need to go on another long walk before winter arrived. The weather along the Portugal coast looked perfect for walking (cool & sunny during the days, minimal rain in the extended forecast) so I made a quick decision to walk the Camino Portugués starting from Porto, Portugal.

Once decided, everything came together quickly. I booked a flight to Madrid, threw a few things into a backpack, flew out the next day, spent one night in Salamanca where I studied Spanish on two occasions, took an overnight bus to Porto, picked up a pilgrim credential from the Porto Cathedral, and started walking. It took less than 4 days from the decision to taking my first steps heading out of Porto. I love it when a plan comes together quickly with minimal planning, logistics, over-analyzing! I craved the simplicity of Camino life: carry a backpack with a few essentials, follow the yellow arrows, eat when hungry, sleep when tired, and repeat until you’ve reached your goal, whatever/wherever that is.

There are several route options on the Camino Portugués. I walked the first 2 days along the coastal route, consisting of beautiful quiet beaches, sounds of waves crashing on the rocks, beach boardwalks for miles, and almost no other pilgrims. Even in the summer, there are usually few pilgrims on the coastal route. In November, it was likely that I would not meet almost no pilgrims until the coastal route merged with the central route after a week. So on the 3rd day, I cut across to the central route, hoping to meet other pilgrims and to see different landscapes. Immediately, I met some wonderful pilgrims and we quickly became a close knit Camino family, looking out for each other, cooking and sharing meals together. We mostly stayed together all the way to Santiago, and some all the way to Finisterre.

On day 7, after crossing from Portugal to Spain, my Spanish friend Samuel, who I met and walked with on the Camino Frances, decided to join me in Tui and walk the last 5 days to Santiago. It was fantastic to walk with a familiar face, especially the always cheerful Samuel.

On day 10, our group decided to take the Variante Espiritual, an alternate route which headed to the coast at Vilanova de Arousa and then required taking a boat on the Bay of Arousa and Ulla River to Padrón, signifying the journey Santiago’s body traveled to Galicia, Spain. The following Sunday, there was an online article in the La Voz de Galicia newspaper describing the Variante Espiritual route, and included a video of our group leaving the boat dock (starting at 1:08).

After taking a rest day in Padrón, we continued to Santiago de Compostela, where we received our official Compostela document and celebrated another successful Camino. I continued towards the ocean the next day. Over 3 days, I walked to the quiet coastal town of Muxia and then continued to Finisterre, where I finished my walk at the lighthouse (same place as the first camino) with a final reunion with many of the wonderful pilgrims I met along the way.

Stats

Route: Camino Portugués (coastal, central, & variante espiritual) & Camino Finisterre
Start: Porto, Portugal
Finish: Finisterre, Spain
Dates: November 12-29, 2017
Walking days: 16
Rest days: 1 (rain)
Distance: 385 km (240 miles)
Average per day: 24 km (15 miles)
Longest day: 35 km (22 miles) – last day
Shortest day: 12 km (7.5 miles) – first day
Dorm bed: 12 nights
Private room: 5 nights
Weather: sunny and cool most days, one rainy day

Day 1: Porto to Matosinho, 12 km

Camino Portugués commences! Last minute decision & flight to Spain, quick stop in my old stomping grounds of Salamanca, overnight bus to Porto, and started walking along the Atlantic coast. Exhausted and seriously jet lagged, nevertheless a great 1st day on the Camino!

Day 2: Matosinho to Vila do Conde, 24 km

Beautiful bluebird day along beach boardwalks.

Day 3: Vila do Conde to Pedra Furada, 22 km

Living & loving the simple pilgrim life. Eat when hungry, sleep when tired, and follow the yellow arrows. In Portugal, there is a 2nd important pilgrimage to Fatima (blue arrows). Today I walked from the coastal route to the central historic route.

Day 4: Pedra Furada to Casa Fernanda, 30 km

A long day of cobblestones (ouch feet) and a much heavier backpack than last Camino (ouch back). Nights are pretty cold but perfect sunny walking weather during the day!

Day 5: Casa Fernanda to Ponte de Lima, 15 km

A relaxed short day with a beautiful arrival into Ponte de Lima. Each day, the Camino feels more like ‘normal’ life, focusing on the present, abundant nature, and pilgrim community.

Day 6: Ponte de Lima to Rubiães, 17 km

Steep climb to the highest point in this Camino for this view. Reminded me of the the Smoky Mountains in the US.

Day 7: Rubiães to Tui, 19 km

After a week in Portugal, today I crossed the border into España and reunited with my friend Samuel who I met on the Camino Frances earlier this year. We will be walking the rest of the way to Santiago. Pictured is the bridge across the Minho River between Portugal and Spain.

Day 8: Tui to Mos, 25 km

Walk, eat, walk, eat, walk, eat, sleep. Simple life. Sunshine. Great pilgrim community.

Day 9: Mos to Pontevedra, 30 km

A long day with beautiful fall colors. Last day of sunshine before rain starts tomorrow.

Day 10: Pontevedra to Armenteira, 22 km

Today our gang of 6 took the “Variante Espiritual” route from Pontevedra. We conquered the longest hardest climb of the Camino along a serene beautiful path. Two days of walking and a boat ride until we reach Santiago.

Day 11: Armenteira to Vilanova de Arousa, 24 km

Today we walked on the beautiful “trail of rock and water” to the coast. Luckily, the rain didn’t come as forecasted and we even had some sunshine in the afternoon.

Day 12: Vilanova de Arousa to Padrón, Rest day

Today we became boat pilgrims on the Bay of Arousa & Ulla River to Padrón. Taking a rest day in Padrón to wait out the rain.

Day 13: Padrón to Santiago de Compostela, 24 km

SANTIAGO! A fantastic reunion with friends from Camino Frances earlier this year. But my walk is not finished. I will continue westward on the Camino to the coast.