PCT Days 88-102: Old Station to Oregon Border
Northern California Part 2: PCT Miles 1373.4 – 1704.7
This last section of Northern California certainly made me earn it: another heatwave, lots of bushwhacking through overgrown trail, dodging poison oak, hundreds of down trees to crawl over/under/around (few of them bloodied up my legs), huge climbs and descents, long days averaging over 25 miles/day, and smoke from nearby fires. But there were also amazing views of Mount Shasta almost everyday and very quiet trail as I was in between large groups of hikers 1-2 days ahead and behind me. Of course, the biggest highlight was crossing the border into Oregon! California is one long state. Excited to be back in the Pacific Northwest! Less than 1000 miles to Canada!
Day 88: July 11, 2021, 8.4 miles
Returned to Old Station today and hiked a short nero day. Started hiking at noon. First stop was visiting the Subway Cave, which was super cool to walk through, especially since it felt like it was air conditioned inside. Then I hiked up to Hat Creek Overlook, where there were views of Mount Lassen to the south and the first view of Mount Shasta to the north.
This is always a very hot dry section of the PCT. And I did it in the middle of an extreme heat advisory in NorCal. And I hiked it in the late afternoon during the hottest part of the day. It was over 100F. What was I thinking?
Just past the overlook, I stopped at the “The Trail Angel Cafe” RV which offered much needed water, cold sodas, shade, and good conversation. I was planning on hanging out for a few hours to cool down but I ended up camping by the RV and hiked out in the cool morning.
Day 89: July 12, 2021, 27.8 miles
Even with an early start, it warmed up quite quickly! It was a brutally hot, dry, exposed hike for most of the day. I drank around 10L of water today. Thank goodness for trail angels that stocked water caches during this otherwise dry stretch.
I can’t wait for this heatwave to subside so the temps are no longer over 100F but ‘only’ in low 90s. The 1400 mile marker today perfectly represents this section of the PCT. Oh, and I saw my first rattlesnake on the PCT. It was at the end of my day and was chillin’ on the trail when I walked up to it. It rattled loudly and made me jump!
Day 90: July 13, 2021, 17.7 miles
This morning I hiked into Burney Falls, a short detour off the PCT. It’s one of the most spectacular falls I’ve ever seen, with water coming out of the rocks everywhere. I was here a few days ago with a friend when I took a zero day and it was great to visit again. I picked up my resupply box from the general store that I dropped off a few days ago, ate ice cream, and hung out in the shade for several hours waiting for the heat to die down. Then I hiked a few more miles and camped saving the next big climb for tomorrow morning.
After 90 days, this is my longest single adventure to date and also the longest time I’ve gone without shaving. The beard is getting quite grizzly but still planning to keep it for as long as I can handle it, hopefully until I’m done with the PCT.
Day 91: July 14, 2021, 27.1 miles
A marathon day! Mostly in the woods bit also hiked along a ridge in the morning with views of Mount Shasta. Lots of climbing today. I’ve reached the point on this adventure where I’m essentially hiking all day with minimal breaks for filtering water and eating.
Day 92: July 15, 2021, 27.9 miles
Third marathon+ day in the last 4 days. Guess this is the new normal now. And given the fire season starting off strong, I want to keep moving north as fast as possible. There are already fires near the PCT behind me that I luckily got ahead of that are affecting hikers further south.
Finally starting to cool down just a bit (high temps are in low 90s). Getting closer to Mount Shasta each day. After yesterday’s big climbing day, today was a lot of descending. So many fearless deer on the trail today and one cheeky deer circled my camp for hours. Apparently they really want salt and wait until you pee so they can then lick the ground.
Day 93: July 16, 2021, 22.3 miles
Today’s hike was motivated by burritos, ice cream, & beverages at Ammirati’s Market in Castella. Great views of Mount Shasta as well as Castle Crags. I skipped hitching into the towns of Dunsmuir or Mount Shasta to resupply as I still had tons of food I’d been carrying since Burney Falls. Instead I went to Ammirati’s market via a side trail and camped with a few other PCT hikers at Castle Crags State Park.
Day 94: July 17, 2021, 26.4 miles
With a full belly, I took the Flume Trail back to the PCT from the Castle Crags campground. Immediately we started climbing on a mostly exposed trail with warm temps. Most of the day was uphill with 6600ft total elevation gain and another marathon day. It was all worth it when I got to camp and this view of Mount Shasta. Looking forward to the sunrise right over Shasta in the morning.
Day 95: July 18, 2021, 31.5 miles
Started the day with an amazing sunrise over Mount Shasta. It was a long tough day after yesterday‘s big climb. Hiked from sunrise until sunset. Saw two rattlesnakes in the final few miles which got my heart racing.
Day 96: July 19, 2021, 26.9 miles
Another big climbing day, 5400 ft elevation gain. Another marathon day, 3rd consecutive and 6th in last 8 days. 180 miles in the last 7 days. Little over 100 miles left in California. Can’t wait to enter Oregon soon! And I took my 5th accidental detour. Luckily this one only added 1 mile.
Day 97: July 20, 2021, 13.6 miles
Short nero day into the hiker friendly town of Etna. Got a ride from trailhead to town by a family waiting for their hiker son. Usual town chores: laundry (after 10 days), shower, resupply, and food. I learned that a half-cup of Thousand Island dressing is the right amount when eating a Reuben sandwich. Dipping each bite is a game changer. Been seeing Mount Shasta every day for 10 days!
Day 98: July 21, 2021, 11.2 miles
Short nero day out of Etna. I got a ride from a fellow hiker Pop-up back to trail in the late afternoon. Walked through a burn area but it was strangely beautiful, especially with so many wildflowers. Camped on a saddle with a view of the valley and Mt Shasta with lots of cowbells ringing and loud mooing nearby. Hope the cows don’t get too close to my camp.
Day 99: July 22, 2021, 23.9 miles
Solo hike at a relaxing pace today. Didn’t see a single thru-hiker today (or yesterday). Camped with a group of deer that keep me company all night and morning, waiting for me to pee so they can lick the salt.
Day 100: July 23, 2021, 22.8 miles
First 7 miles: relaxing downhill. Second 7 miles: bushwhacking through overgrown trail, lots of poison oak, & dozens of down trees to crawl over/under/around. Third 7 miles: hot AF 100F+ road walk into Seiad Valley. Mini-resupply at the General Store and a great burger at the Wildwood Tavern. Learned a little about the “State of Jefferson”. Then hiked back to trail and camped at the first spot I found.
Day 101: July 24, 2021, 21.8 miles
An eventful day! Started with a huge climb up from Seiad Valley (total gain of 6700 ft for the day). Like yesterday, walked through a burn area with lots of down trees and overgrowth requiring bushwhacking while trying to avoid tons of poison oak. Then I lost the trail in the overgrowth and was scrambling over bushes and logs to find the trail when a branch cracked as I was walking across a log and I crashed down hard. Banged up one leg pretty good but thankfully just surface wounds and minimal bleeding and required just a few bandages. It could have been much worse. Also, it was hazy all day today as smoke from the nearby Dixie fires blanketed the area. Hopefully the smoke will abate as I continue north.
Day 102: July 25, 2021, 25.4 miles
OREGON!! So excited to be done with California finally (it was wonderful) and back in the Pacific Northwest. Even though the terrain didn’t change, it immediately felt like I was closer to home and there was a pep in my step the rest of the day. Less than 1000 miles to Canada!
